Dior in Scotland, the documentary in homage to Scotland and its tartan
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If you’re looking for something to watch between two Christmas movies, here’s our recommendation for your weekend planning! Shared a few days ago on YouTube, the documentary Dior in Scotland: The making of the Cruise 2025 collection traces the conception of the 2025 Cruise show, showcasing the creation of tartans and the sounds of bagpipes. It’s a journey to the heart of Scotland, its history, and its traditions, where we meet local artisans preserving ancestral know-how.
How does history take center stage in the documentary Dior in Scotland?
The notion of history is inseparable from the creation of a collection. On one hand, the cuts, materials, and colors chosen serve as narrators, inviting us into another universe. Then, the inspirations and methods used propose a dialogue between eras, blending present and past. Thus, around this concept, the documentary Dior in Scotland: The making of the Cruise 2025 collection is built.
Christian Dior and Maria Grazia Chiuri, connected by the Scottish landscape
An astonishing and moving detail caught our eye during the Dior 2025 Cruise show. Indeed, between the tartans, pearls, and other embroideries, photographs found their place on kilts and knits. Straight from the house’s archives, these black-and-white snapshots date back to Christian Dior’s visit to Scotland in the spring of 1955.
A journey that inspired, 70 years later, the current creator of the house to visit these lands and create her cruise collection. A way to bridge the past and present of the house, and above all, to honor the rich and fascinating history of this country, notably illustrated through its signature fabric, tartan.
How does tartan reflect Scotland’s history?
Beyond presenting the technical aspect of tartan manufacturing, the documentary Dior in Scotland emphasizes its history and the symbol it conveys. This pattern, emblematic of the country, is as much a symbol of tradition as it is of rebellion. Reflecting an affiliation with the country, and for some, a clan, its appearance and the evolution of its use fascinate us as much as it does Maria Grazia Chiuri, who wished to create her own tartan for the “Dior Clan.”
Through meetings and discussions, we learn more about the variations of the fabric, its making, and how the expertise related to it endures through time across Scotland.
What is Mary Stuart’s significance in Dior’s Cruise 2025 collection?
In addition to highlighting the emblematic fabric of Scotland, Maria Grazia Chiuri aimed to draw inspiration from one of the women who most impacted its history. Queen of France at 16, widowed at 18, and then imprisoned for almost 19 years in England, following her return to her Scottish homeland, the life trajectory of Mary, Queen of Scots, is one of the most tragic. Nevertheless, her influence is not only seen in the country’s history but also in embroidery and feminism.
Indeed, while she was cut off from the entire world during her years of imprisonment, she found in embroidery a way to navigate obstacles to express herself and tell her story. These exceptional pieces, marked by her needle (some of which I was able to observe at the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh), attest to her strong character and resilience.
The artistic director of Dior wanted to pay tribute to her through pieces from her cruise collection. We were able to see her portrait in print, accompanied by keywords resonating with her personality, and bringing strength and a feminist character to the pieces. These same words were embroidered on other creations, echoing the needlework of Mary Stuart, thus giving her voice back in a way. Additionally, some cuts are inspired by outfits she may have worn, all accessorized with pearls and other jewelry.
How does the Cruise 2025 Dior in Scotland collection showcase various crafts?
The strength of the documentary, in my opinion, is that it does not primarily focus on Dior, but rather emphasizes all the Scottish artisans and their various crafts. The notion of tradition and transmission is at the heart of the narrative, thus bringing a very human aspect to the format. The knowledge of authors also brings valuable insight into the evolution of costumes over time and the significance of Mary Stuart’s embroideries.
How is the Cruise 2025 collection primarily a story of collaborations?
Throughout the documentary, Maria Grazia Chiuri meets with local artisans to understand their heritage, their work, and envision how to collaborate together. From the making of tartan to crafting a kilt, or even illustrating on porcelain… Many trades are highlighted, underscoring the importance of each in the process of creating a piece and adding value to each step of production, from cleaning to dyeing, spinning, weaving, quality control, cutting, and assembly…
From Harris Tweed Hebrides to Johnstons of Elgin, passing through Samantha McCoach of The Kilt, Robert Mackie, Esk Cashmere, and Pollyanna Johnson… These portraits and meetings highlight the importance of transmission to perpetuate these crafts. They also emphasize the creation of a dialogue between tradition and modernity, and how these pieces continue to hold significant places in everyday life as well as in designers’ sketchbooks.
What role did nature play in the collection and the Cruise 2025 show?
Nature and the Scottish landscapes are inseparable from tartan. Indeed, it is the colors of the highlands, lakes, and other green expanses that inspire the hues and patterns of the fabric. For her “Dior Clan” tartan, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose a shade combining notes of purple and green to make it easy to wear and pair.
These tones were also found in the gardens of Drummond Castle, where the show took place. This green setting, inspired by the style of Italian and French Renaissance gardens, provided a perfect continuity of the link between nature and the collection. Two landscapers adorned the flowerbeds with a variety of flowers, plants, and shrubs, bringing in notes of burgundy, purple, and green to extend this theme.
And, naturally, it was to the melodies of bagpipe players that the creations of the Dior 2025 Cruise collection unveiled themselves, enchanting the entire audience.
Returning from Scotland myself, I enjoyed immersing myself in the atmosphere of the country through the documentary. The emphasis on Scottish traditions and craftsmanship, through the portraits of these artisans, makes it not only an interesting format but also very touching. Moreover, one can spot Stephen Jones, who is currently featured in the event exhibition at the Palais Galliera “Chapeaux d’artiste”.
If you want to complete your weekend watchlist, we invite you to discover the Mubi documentary Who is Sabato De Sarno? A Gucci Story, detailing the creator’s first collection for the Italian house, for which Paul Mescal lent his voice.
Link to the documentary available on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAG_jaWTCVU
