Fashion in Motion: The Exhibition Echoing the 2024 Olympics

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As we are less than a year away from the start of the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, the sports fiber is already starting to infiltrate the capital. The Palais Galliera, the fashion museum of Paris, has composed an exhibition in three acts, highlighting the evolution of fashion in relation to sports practice since the 18th century. Discover the first act of the exhibition “Fashion in Motion,” exploring the evolution of society, its habits, and its relationship with physical exercise.

Fashion in Motion: An Evolving Exhibition

Launched on June 16, the new exhibition at the Palais Galliera, “Fashion in Motion,” will showcase sports practice through the lens of fashion until September 7, 2025. 

Presented in a series of 3 installations, the museum’s second collection exhibition will showcase over 200 works throughout its duration, following this schedule:

• 1st installation from June 16, 2023, to March 15, 2024.

• 2nd installation from April 20, 2024, to January 5, 2025.

• 3rd installation from February 8, 2025, to September 7, 2025.

Set in echo of the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, which will be held in Paris from July 26, 2024, to September 8, 2024, the exhibition “Fashion in Motion” traces the evolution of fashion and clothing in connection with the changing relationship to the body, movement, and sports practice from the 18th century to today, through pieces from its own collection.

The democratization of sports practice, hygienic theories, improvements in fabrics and materials, the creation of competitions, and the pursuit of performance, the modification of silhouettes, and wardrobes incorporating sportswear into daily life… The exhibition “Fashion in Motion” offers us a dive into time with a unique and very interesting perspective, relevant to both men’s and women’s wardrobes.

Fashion in Motion: When Fashion and Health Are Linked

It is often said that regular sports practice is essential for good health. This fact has led to many changes in history, both in society’s daily life and in its wardrobe.

Indeed, if we look back to the 18th century, the outfits worn at that time were very tight, compressing the body structure, and were accompanied, for women, by imposing petticoats, creating the characteristic whalebone silhouette of that era. Men were also wrapped in fashionable outfits that were quite narrow and close to the body. Such clothing led to certain discomforts, primarily a lack of freedom of movement.

These consequences, increasingly pointed out by contemporary doctors, along with the influence of British style, paved the way for new wardrobes with more flexible and lighter fabrics, giving birth to new silhouettes and pieces that allowed for better movement. This was especially sought after for strolling, which at the time was an essential outing to see and be seen during afternoons, walking in beautiful outfits that guaranteed one’s social rank. These outings, becoming more popular thanks to new urban developments, represented a physical activity and garnered many followers, particularly regarding the sports activities developing across the English Channel at the same time.

A few years later, in the 19th century, hygienic theories highlighted the health benefits of sea bathing. Their arguments, along with the creation of new railways, expanded the practice and initiated the creation of new bathing suits. These theorists, emphasizing the need for sports practice for public health reasons, facilitated the development of sport, which was initially reserved for the upper classes and later expanded to the more popular classes.

How Have Ready-to-Wear Pieces Adapted to Sports Practice?

Beyond sea bathing, the range of physical activities developed over the years for men and then for women, initially including horseback riding and cycling. Clothing initially adapted to the practice, particularly for women who continued to wear everyday style pieces, but which could open up to facilitate practice, as in the case of horseback riding, where they rode side-saddle.

During the 19th century, women began to wear so-called masculine pieces, with trousers and riding boots, allowing for greater ease and encouraging performance. Silhouettes thus shifted away from the volume of traditional pieces to outfits closer to the body, allowing for more freedom of movement.

The body became more apparent, especially in practices like tennis with skirts and short shorts. This evolution of clothing also highlights society’s relationship to the body, which has also evolved over the years.

How Competition Changed the Purpose of Clothing?

It was only in the 19th century that sport became professionalized with the advent of sporting competitions. Initially seen as an opportunity to develop social connections, practice later adopted an aspect of self-improvement. In response, the design of clothing became focused on performance. New textiles like knitwear, and new ways of constructing pieces slipped into brand collections. We have, among other things, seen the emergence of Burberry gabardine, which we recently discussed. The goal was no longer to seek sophistication but to support movement to succeed in practice.

In parallel, competitions attracting numerous spectators encouraged them to adjust their outfits to reflect their passion for sports in their looks.

Thus, little by little, ready-to-wear brands began to incorporate sportswear inspirations into their collections to meet the demand from their clientele for relaxed outfits in tune with the spirit of the times. The pieces drew inspiration particularly from the cuts but also from the patterns of sportswear.

A trend that has never stopped and is still visible today, with the presence of sneakers in everyday life, as well as joggers or hoodies.

Fashion in Motion: Sports Practice in Vogue

Beyond a simple practice, as is more common today, sports activity was a true way of life in the 1900s. The practice involved specific equipment and detailed pieces, as we see in the exhibition “Fashion in Motion,” featuring a fan that belonged to Princess Murat, depicting a hunting scene. Or with a hunting jacket designed by Schiaparelli, featuring buttons with raised boar heads.

This trend of a lifestyle centered around practice was illustrated in those years by dedicated magazines, one for women called “Le Jardin des Modes,” and another for men. The covers featured images of a sport, accompanied by a typical and well-detailed outfit.

This entire universe has also developed through clothing labels and has been illustrated in 100% sportswear ranges from brands.

How Sportswear Established Itself in Society

Today, sportswear remains an important source of inspiration for major fashion houses when designing their pieces. Sneakers are a perfect example, having become the new loafers and heels of urban life. The pieces, now integrated into our daily lives, are sold at exorbitant prices. Some brands, like Chanel, have even used sports as a guiding theme for certain collections.

Even the French national team’s jersey has become a staple in wardrobes, no longer solely tied to practice but worn as a sign of belonging or attachment.

Fashion in Motion: A Portion of History to Rediscover

As sportswear has become so intertwined with our daily lives that we wear it without even realizing it, the exhibition “Fashion in Motion” allows us to discover how the evolution of sports practice has impacted fashion. This includes the redefinition of silhouettes, the evolution of men’s and women’s wardrobes, materials and cuts, as well as the attention given to the creation of each piece.

“Fashion in Motion” is a beautiful exhibition where we learn as much about fashion, sport, and society itself.

To continue your journey, the Palais Galliera presents an exhibition on color in fashion through a series of backlit autochromes used during the French Taste Fair from 1921 to 1923. Captured moments of great beauty and uniqueness that reflect the luxury of fashion through staged presentations of ready-to-wear, leather goods, and accessories.

The first installation of “Fashion in Motion” is on display until March 15, 2024.

While waiting for the next part of the exhibition, you can find the men’s and women’s sportswear ranges on Modalova’s e-shop!