How the Burberry trench became an iconic piece?

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With the arrival of beautiful days, it makes its grand return. Embracing all our movements with grace and fluidity, the Burberry trench once again takes to the streets this spring-summer. Between practicality and aesthetics, this piece has charmed for over 140 years both men’s and women’s wardrobes. It has confirmed its place as essential for many profiles. While it parades today in the city streets, the trench coat has also faced more complicated times, set against a backdrop of trench warfare. A piece with a strong history, giving it character and knowing how to play its strengths. A rediscovery of an iconic piece!

What is the origin of the Burberry trench?

While we all know it for its straight cut, its enchanting beige color, and its belt cinching according to taste, the Burberry trench has a much richer and darker history than its moments in the spotlight of fashion shows.

Conquering the elements in style

At its origin, it was not a matter of style that led to its creation, but the search for a new piece combining waterproofing and breathability.

We owe the first inspirations for the trench coat we know today to the Englishman Thomas Burberry. Suffering from rheumatism, he wished to create a new material, more effective than those available at the time, to combat the typical yet unpleasant English drizzle. His idea was to have a lightweight piece that could protect from rain and cold while allowing the body to breathe.

Thus, the young man, a former cloth merchant who had been at the helm of his own house since he was 21 in 1856, began to improve the pieces available at the time and started to write the legacy of the Burberry house.

The “Mack” and “Aquascutum”, early sketches of the trench coat

The first waterproof coat, the Mack, appeared in the early 1820s. We owe this creation to inventors Charles Macintosh and Thomas Hancock, who were already leading the rubber industry in Great Britain. Designed in rubberized cotton, the overcoat was improved a few years later with the model by English tailor John Emary, who named his piece after his company, Aquascutum.

Gabardine, a new chapter towards the Burberry trench

In 1879, Thomas Burberry approached the production of the waterproof trench from a different angle. By waterproofing each fiber of cotton and wool before weaving, rather than once assembled as was customary, the head of the Burberry house designed a new material, much more efficient, allowing drops to slide off the fabric rather than infiltrate it. This is how gabardine was born, becoming the most effective piece of its time. His trench quickly gained popularity and was adopted by all adventurous profiles.

In 1895, the creation of the Tielocken model confirmed the house’s notoriety and shaped the silhouette of the iconic Burberry trench.

How did the Burberry trench become a must-have?

After captivating hunters and explorers, the piece became associated with a more complicated environment, that of war.

Indeed, offering numerous advantages, the Burberry trench provided good protection against rain, dust, and toxic gases while ensuring good ventilation. Additionally, it was possible to attach accessories to its belt, put things in its large pockets, or hang rank insignia on the shoulder straps.

Adapted for the environment, the model was worn in khaki for easier camouflage.

The first order was placed by the army during the Second Boer War in South Africa. Then, during World War I, the model was favored and worn by over half a million soldiers, thus becoming known as the “trench coat.”

The success of the piece was observed with the creation of similar pieces by other brands at more accessible prices, making the trench available to more budgets.

The Burberry trench, from the trenches to the streets

Benefiting from a heroic image, of the soldier defending his homeland, the Burberry trench has become a coveted piece, also for everyday life. To make it more elegant, the house created an internal tartan lining, the Nova Check, which has become the emblem of the house.

The influence of cinema and the films in which heroes wear the trench surrounds the piece with all the glamour of the 7th art and makes it even more desirable. After male figures like Humphrey Bogart or Gene Kelly in the 40s and 50s, the Burberry trench was included in women’s wardrobes as early as the 60s, worn by Audrey Hepburn, Marlène Dietrich, and Meryl Streep.

The piece quickly became a must-have, a symbol of class and elegance, with a resonance no longer of soldiers’ coats, but an image linked to fictional characters portrayed on the big screen.

Quickly, other designers incorporated the trench silhouette into their collections, while the British royal family made the Burberry house its official supplier.

The piece experienced a more timid period in the 1970s/1980s but regained prominence with the arrival of the new Artistic Director of the Burberry house, Christopher Bailey, in the early 2000s.

How to choose a women’s Burberry trench?

Over the years, the Burberry trench has reinvented itself while maintaining its iconic line. We thus discover the piece in various silhouettes, named after London neighborhoods: Kensington, Westminster, Pimlico, Chelsea, and Waterloo. Available in different colors and visual designs, with the Nova Check only present as lining or also on the collar, the piece fits into the wardrobes of men, women, and children.

From one model to another, we find the iconic features of the piece, including the belt, buttons, wrist straps, and shoulder flaps. The silhouette is reworked, either by the shape of the collar, the positioning of the buttons, or its length, to offer pieces that fit both a classy and casual look.

Where to buy a Burberry trench made to last?

If the Burberry house has managed to establish itself over time with its trench coat, this relies, in addition to its perfect cut, on its high-quality craftsmanship. Between the performance and durability of the materials and the precision in the finishes, we are looking at high-end pieces that reflect an entire know-how. And when we see pieces from the first collections still standing perfectly today, it highlights the relevance of this investment.

Indeed, buying a Burberry trench represents a significant investment, although amortized in the long term, given the lifespan of the piece. However, when we see new models starting at over €1000, we naturally understand that the piece is not affordable for everyone. This is why we notice a pronounced interest in vintage models, offered at much more advantageous prices.

From flea markets, thrift stores, or specialty addresses, many places offer the opportunity to snag good deals. Recently, during a trip to London, we discovered beautiful pieces, particularly at the vintage market on Portobello Road, where specialized shops presented old collections with trench coats selling on average for £300, with some prices dropping to £230 and others rising quickly depending on the model. The same goes for the vintage market on Brick Lane, a must-visit thrift address where corners are dedicated 100% to Burberry.

How to know if a Burberry trench is authentic?

Given the much more advantageous prices of vintage pieces, it’s interesting to look into second-hand offers to find your perfect Burberry trench. However, counterfeits are numerous, and one must remain very vigilant, especially in the face of particularly tempting offers.

In general, it is advisable to see the piece before purchase to observe it from all angles. Without proof of original purchase, it’s up to your eye to tell the difference.

Burberry pieces are of very high quality; thus, the fabrics must be robust, well-made, and in good colors. The finishes must be perfect, sturdy, with precise seams, consistent, and a straight hem. If the model has a Nova Check lining, its lines must be symmetrical to the stitching and its colors conforming.

The buttons display the house’s name in uppercase twice, while the labels, three in number, all use the same font. The main label is the one often imitated. An authentic one has no irregularities, both in writing and in the logo if present. Replicas slightly alter the position of the knight or adjust the font. It’s up to you to scrutinize every detail!

And if you are looking for other vintage Burberry pieces and don’t have the eye of an expert, head over to Modalova where we have a selection of verified pieces!

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