Men in Dresses: Between Scandals and Genderless Fashion
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Its release in December 2020 had the effect of a bomb in the fashion and publishing world. Appearing dressed in a Gucci gown, singer Harry Styles had made headlines by gracing the cover of Vogue US. An event that stirred the morals and sparked more than one debate, where the more conservative cried scandal and nearly suffered a heart attack… Two years later, what is the state of gender-neutral fashion?
The evolution of gender in fashion
History in general is fascinating, but the history of fashion is even more so. The evolution of styles, cuts, materials, and colors says a lot about a society and its individuals. Following these periods allows us to see how morals have evolved over the centuries, or should we rather say, how they have digressed…
Indeed, while in 2022 a man wearing makeup has a 50% chance of being insulted for free, during the court of Louis XIV, men powdered their cheeks with the greatest of ease, wore wigs, high heels, and grand outfits full of colors and patterns, and were admired for their elegance. One might say that Bilal Hassani could have overshadowed the king with his more sublime wigs!
And yes, during periods like the Renaissance, the outfits were relatively similar for men and women. It wasn’t until later, during the Industrial Revolution, that a change began to be observed in the approach to men’s fashion. A desire for sobriety was felt, with the three-piece suit establishing itself as the new idea of masculinity. This is how we saw the creation of two distinctive wardrobes for men and women, and the beginning of a gap.
Women in pants, women in prison?
Over the years, the gap between what women and men “should wear” in order to fit into societal norms has widened. A discrimination and separation of genders were established. Women thus had only the choice of skirts and dresses, while men moved from one suit to another.
The pants were off-limits for women, who could even be arrested for wearing them until the 1950s, and also be denied entry to restaurants. Because you see, by wearing pants, they were pretending to be men, oh what a scandal…
For example, although permitted since the 1970s in American federal institutions, it was not until 1993 that women could come dressed in pants in the Senate.
The gender-neutral approach to fashion, yet still feminized
Popularized by Hollywood figures such as Marlène Dietrich, suits and pants found their place in women’s wardrobes, with a gender-neutral approach to attire. This was especially thanks to the collections of certain designers.
We thus witnessed the popularization of the suit initially by Chanel. However, while keeping the skirt in line with the times and featuring very feminine cuts. Diana notably became an emblem in wearing the tailored suit, synonymous with elegance. It was only in 1966 that Yves Saint Laurent made a mark by releasing a collection of smokings for women, ushering in a new era for women’s fashion!
This turning of codes is currently observed in the male wardrobe, causing quite a stir.
Gender-neutral fashion in 2022
Men wearing nail polish? What horror! Here’s a summary of the mentalities…
For several years, we have observed the same pattern in male wardrobes, acquiring pieces deemed “feminine” with a desire for a gender-neutral approach to fashion. Whether by touches, gradually through rings, bracelets, necklaces, nail polish… Or through more striking pieces, like dresses, heels, or even the trendy piece of 2022, the crop top.
Makeup has also been democratized to lean towards gender-neutral beauty. Notably with beauty YouTube channels hosted by guys. Additionally, in pop culture, shows like Sex Education have highlighted male characters who wear makeup and don pieces “belonging to the female wardrobe.” They have also helped underscore the societal obstacles they face.
Closed minds facing gender-neutral fashion?
Yes, being a man and wearing a dress or makeup seems to shake more than one mind in 2022…
Although figures like Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Freddie Mercury, and Elton John wear outfits outside the “norms”… As soon as one steps out of the “stage costume,” and skirts parade on masculine legs in the streets, public opinion is outraged. Waves of insults fly and labels are slapped everywhere. We feel a regression to the past, when women used to cover theirs with pants.
However, we are gradually observing the opening of minds (albeit very slowly), allowing men to feel more comfortable wearing all types of pieces and embracing their desire for gender-neutral fashion.
Some public figures highlight looks deemed controversial by a large part of society in order to democratize them. This occurs both in everyday life and during media events. Like Jonathan Van Ness, who struts better than anyone in heels, Jared Leto, Romain Costa, or Billy Porter at the Oscars.
We also notice many pieces, “considered feminine,” appearing in the men’s shows by designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier or Jacquemus. Between dresses, crop tops, bodysuits, skirts, wedding veils…
Unisex collections: a new positioning for gender-neutral fashion
This desire to stop stigmatizing pieces as belonging to a gender is also illustrated in unisex collections. Increasingly offered, they are often conceived by brands with eco-responsible values, promoting timeless fashion with pieces that can last for years.
These “cross-dressing” collections come in a wide range of sizes, making them suitable for both feminine and masculine silhouettes.
We also observe the emergence of gender-neutral skincare as well as makeup. Like the brand by Harry Styles, Pleasing.
Harry Styles, the king of gender-neutral fashion
And speaking of Harry Styles, how can one write an article on gender-neutral fashion and the upheavals of codes without mentioning the new fashion icon?
Little prince of fashion
Initially known for his role in the music industry and then on the big screen, it is now in the world of fashion that the singer has made his mark in recent years. Passionate about fashion, he has an adventurous style profile. Glittering suits, cycling shorts, form-fitting jumpsuits, dresses, jewelry, nail polish… He plays with pieces and occupies a genuine iconic space, with an eclectic array of outfits, earning him true recognition for his stance on gender-neutral fashion, providing visibility for it.
The cover that’s making headlines
The positioning and influence of Harry Styles in the fashion world even propelled him to the cover of Vogue USA. A major event that sparked numerous reactions. On one hand, because in its 127 years of existence, it is the first time the magazine features a man alone on the cover. And the other subject amidst the discussions: the gown with a “very feminine” cut that Harry wore on this cover.
This fashion choice divided public opinion, with some finding it normal, while others unleashed a torrent of criticism based on their formatted vision and conception of masculinity and virility. Let us remember that a few centuries ago, a man in extravagant attire was at the forefront of fashion…
The freedom of each still has many battles to fight against very binary conceptions of fashion.
Ha Ha Ha, the collection by Harry Styles x Gucci
New recognition for the musician, with the release of a collection co-created with the Gucci house, named Ha ha ha.
After several appearances wearing pieces from the house in various campaigns, he has now intervened at the very birth of the pieces. Through creations around the suit, mixing British inspirations, classic cuts, and colors – patterns that are a bit eccentric and childlike. Although the collection is for men, the cuts of the pieces, with flared pants and accessories like small handbags and scarves, make some models androgynous, initiating doubts and playing with the notions of gender present in consciousnesses.
This collection highlights a long-standing friendship between Harry Styles and Alessandro Michele, fueled by a shared passionate love for fashion.
Still in its early stages, gender-neutral fashion is one to watch closely, as it relates to the evolving mentalities of our society.
