Polaroid Exhibition in Berlin: Instant Magic at the Helmut Newton Foundation
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Polaroid photos have a unique je-ne-sais-quoi: an authentic grain, a touch of nostalgia, and above all, that incomparable magic of seeing the image appear before our eyes. And it seems that even the biggest names in fashion photography have not been able to resist their charm.
This week, the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin celebrates this iconic aesthetic with Polaroids, an exhibition showcasing the works of Helmut Newton alongside other photographers who have explored the Polaroid in all its forms: as a single image, in a mosaic, or even in a book.
A fascinating dive into the world of Polaroid, which is sure to make you fall in love with these vintage grain snapshots all over again.
I invite you on a little journey into the world of Helmut Newton and Polaroid through images.
The Polaroid, that strange object of desire
A quintessential pop-culture object, the Polaroid immediately captivated creators upon its invention in 1947 by Edwin Land. In 1972, the small camera adopted a foldable design and, most importantly, became affordable. It was then embraced by a larger number of photographers, both amateur and professional, and found its way into the pages of Vogue, featuring the most iconic models of the ’80s and ’90s, such as Cindy Crawford and Eva Herzigová, under Helmut Newton’s watchful eye. The photographer quickly connected with the camera, which allowed him to capture instant snapshots of the shoot. By the early ’90s, the Polaroid was no longer just a tool for composing images during photoshoots, but had become a fully creative tool for capturing the authenticity of a moment.
Spontaneity is precisely what Helmut Newton loves most, despite facing criticism because the photos featured in his 1992 book Pola Woman were deemed “imperfect.” “But that’s exactly what was exciting: the spontaneity, the speed.”
The Exhibition: Helmut Newton, Vogue, Fashion, and Creators
The exhibition is vast, and to be honest, it is one of the most comprehensive dedicated to fashion and Polaroid. Visitors stroll through hundreds of photographs presented chronologically, tracing the evolution of Helmut Newton’s work, one of the most influential fashion photographers of the 20th century.
The viewer thus discovers the artist’s creative process, from the initial idea to the final image. Some photos still bear Newton’s handwritten notes, attesting to the Polaroid as a working tool in image composition.
As for the works themselves, they capture both landscapes and life scenes in bourgeois Parisian apartments, on vacation on the Côte d’Azur, or in Monaco. Newton excels in the art of rendering these luxurious places authentically, while infusing a touch of sexiness and impulsiveness. Starting in 1978, his photographs become more staged: more acting, compositions inspired by the Renaissance and Hollywood cinema.
My favorite series? The shots taken by pools in the ’80s, where aesthetics and spontaneity intertwine. Some images, crafted with geometric precision playing on the blues of the sky or water, evoke the work of American painter Edward Hopper.
Being primarily a fashion photographer, fashion is, of course, a central theme of the exhibition. The viewer immerses themselves in Parisian apartments where photoshoots for Yves Saint-Laurent take place. Moreover, the designer, admiring Newton’s work, personally commissioned him to take photographs of his collections.
Finally, the exhibition highlights Helmut Newton’s iconic collaborations with major figures in fashion, from Karl Lagerfeld to Thierry Mugler, offering a fascinating glimpse into his influence in the world of luxury and glamour.
Other Featured Artists
The exhibition continues with the work of other artists who have explored the Polaroid in various forms. Whether realistic or experimental, these snapshots reveal the richness of this medium. Some use it to capture the moment with spontaneity, while others twist it into mosaics or abstract works, playing with the imperfections of the medium.
What stands out is that the magic of the Polaroid lies in its ability to freeze the present moment. Far from being just a testing tool, it establishes itself as a true artistic medium.
You have until July 25, 2025, to admire fashion through the Polaroid exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin.
All information is accessible here.
