Saint Laurent Productions: From Runways to the Big Screen!

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As the first luxury house to take the plunge, Saint Laurent launched its own audiovisual production unit last May, simply named: Saint Laurent Productions. The artistic director, Anthony Vaccarello, has made a mark in this new role by producing the new short film by Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar, presented at the 76th Cannes Film Festival last May and now in theaters. An elegant western, where clothing plays a leading role, marking the beginning of a new creative direction for the house that shifts from fashion shows to cinemas. Discovering this first production of spaghetti western, blending flavors of romance and vengeance.

How Luxury Houses Integrate into Films

Fashion has always had a special connection with cinema. On one hand, through the costumes created for productions, showcasing the craftsmanship of art professions and the trends specific to the industry. But also, by shining a light on pieces and their renown, as the series Sex and the City did time and again, particularly with the Birkin bag, or the Manolo Blahnik jewel heels.

Beyond the iconic pieces, sometimes entire houses have been highlighted in feature films. Recently, we fell in love with the 5 outfits created by Chanel for Greta Gerwig’s Barbie film.

Another scenario involves certain houses that have become the subject of a film, such as the acclaimed House of Gucci, directed by Ridley Scott, which revisits the assassination of Guccio Gucci’s grandson in 1995.

Moreover, designers with strong ties to the 7th art have occasionally set aside collection sketches for storyboards, like Tom Ford, who made Gucci what it is today, and passed through YSL before launching his own eponymous label. The stylist has directed two notable films, A Single Man and Nocturnal Animals, and designed costumes for two James Bond films, Quantum of Solace and Skyfall.

Thus, various links exist between fashion houses and cinema, however, the creation of an audiovisual production as a standalone activity for a house remains a first. As a result, all eyes are on Saint Laurent Productions.

The Beginnings of Saint Laurent Productions

Although the creation of Saint Laurent Productions is at the center of all discussions, its establishment is not so surprising… Indeed, if we take a look at the relationship the house has with cinema, we can detect numerous warning signs leading to the recent creation of its audiovisual production unit.

Of course, when we think of Yves Saint Laurent and the 7th art, we immediately think of the two biopics released simultaneously in 2014 about the house’s creator. One directed by Jalil Lespert, featuring Pierre Niney, and the other, conceived by Bertrand Bonello, in which the late Gaspard Ulliel brought the couturier to life.

As a great lover of the 7th art, Yves Saint Laurent designed in 1967 the costumes for the award-winning Belle de Jour by Luis Buñuel, featuring Catherine Deneuve, Jean Sorel, and Michel Piccoli. This connection to cinema nourished the couturier’s creations for many years, inspiring him to create pieces worn by major figures of this art on red carpets around the world. Like Sophia Loren, who also wore iconic Yves Saint Laurent creations (for Dior) in the feature film Arabesque. Even today, Anthony Vaccarello continues to create silhouettes within the house that resemble characters straight out of a film, full of grace and elegance.

Cinema as Seen by Saint Laurent Productions and Anthony Vaccarello

With the intention of creating this audiovisual production company to “work with all the great talents of cinema that have inspired me over the years and offer them a platform.”, Anthony Vaccarello had already highlighted filmmakers during a campaign for his Spring 2023 menswear collection. Portraits, grouped into a series called “Director’s cut”, were created around David Cronenberg, Abel Ferrara, Jim Jarmusch, and Pedro Almodóvar, whom we find alongside the house that marks its first production with him.

The Kering group, which owns the Saint Laurent house, also showcases cinema talents with its Women in Motion award.

If the luxury house is now fully illustrated through Saint Laurent Productions, it is not its first attempt at production. Indeed, in 2019, the house partnered with two other production companies to co-produce Lux Aeterna by Gaspar Noé.

Now, the house operates independently under its Saint Laurent Productions entity. And the artistic director has wisely chosen the moment to launch this new creative path, namely, during the last Cannes Film Festival. With not just one, but two productions, the house made a notable place for itself on the Croisette.

In addition to supporting filmmakers with his production company, Anthony Vaccarello, who has been at the helm of the house for seven years, announced that he would personally make the pieces Saint Laurent worn in the films.

How Does Saint Laurent Productions Plan to Unfold Its Universe?

While one might have thought that Saint Laurent Productions would focus on films echoing the world of fashion, the reality is quite different. Anthony Vaccarello seems to want to challenge himself to explore new horizons through this creative avenue, to further enrich the artistic palette and vision of the French luxury house. Presented in the official competition at the 76th Cannes Film Festival, held from May 16 to 27, 2023, the first two creations produced are thus anchored in two distinct universes.

On one hand, the “Trailer for the film that will never exist ‘Funny Wars'” is a trailer highlighting works by Jean-Luc Godard, created before his passing in September 2022, which were part of the development of his future film that will consequently never see the light of day.

On the other hand, Saint Laurent Productions has again showcased the talent of filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar by producing his new short film, Strange Way of Life, a spaghetti western blending vengeance and gay romance.

A creation made alongside the production company of the filmmaker El Deseo, which we are now fortunate to see in theaters since August 16, through an unprecedented experience, where it is screened alongside the filmmaker’s previous short film, La voix Humaine, made in 2020.

How Does Saint Laurent Productions Leave Its Mark on Strange Way of Life?

If on one side Pedro Almodóvar offers us a perfectly crafted spaghetti western infused with his distinctive aura, both in writing and staging with a tableau-like aesthetic, Saint Laurent Productions also takes up the challenge.

Alongside Pedro Pascal and Ethan Hawke, the clothing appears as a character in its own right, thanks to strong pieces echoing the filmmaker’s universe. We thus discover two seriously well-dressed cowboys, breaking away from the usual dusty cowboy imagery while respecting the costumes associated with this period and genre.

María Clara Notari, Artistic Director, and Anthony Vaccarello embraced Pedro Almodóvar’s vision and rich primary color palette, playing with green, ochre, and red tones for the character of Silva (jacket, plaid shirt, t-shirt, scarf), and blue and black tones for the character of Sheriff Jake (shirt, jacket). A detailed work on the pieces goes as far as the underpants, bath towel, ties, and double belts that complete a full wardrobe.

The clothing receives close-ups and mentions in dialogues, giving a certain stature to the characters while characterizing them and enriching their construction. The pieces also play an essential role in the characterization of the bond between the two main characters and allow, like the famous scarf, to bring ambiguity and questions regarding their relationship, both for the two men and the viewer.

Saint Laurent Productions thus signs a successful first production that does not go unnoticed. At the same time, with the mentions “Saint Laurent Productions” and “Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello presents” being more prominent than the film’s title and team names, it is hard to overlook… A bit more subtlety would be appreciated…

That said, we are eager to see the upcoming productions in which Anthony Vaccarello will shine. Notably with names of filmmakers like David Cronenberg and Paolo Sorrentino that are buzzing…

In the meantime, if you want to succumb to the double belt worn by the protagonists, here is a Modalova selection of Saint Laurent belts: