The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon – The Meeting at the V&A Museum

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The Burberry trench, a piece with a rich history, is a reflection of British craftsmanship, both innovative and timeless. Having transitioned from a simple outerwear garment to a true runway icon, the exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon at the V&A Museum revisits the evolution of the coat in celebration of the 170th anniversary of the house. This installation, which we visited and loved, will be on display until January 3, 2027.

An exhibition celebrating fashion and the connections between Burberry and the V&A Museum

Head to a small gallery immersed in the gentle darkness of mahogany wood, with a fine rain as background noise and clouds adorning its ceiling. In this British ambiance, a knight welcomes us with a checkered umbrella in hand: we have arrived at the exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting An Icon.

Open to the public for just over three months, the exhibition is part of a special partnership between the fashion house and the South Kensington museum.

Having previously presented exhibitions together, Burberry and the V&A Museum are set to write a new chapter together with the opening to the public in autumn 2028 of the Burberry Gallery, which will offer visitors a new immersion into the museum’s fashion collections.

Thus, as a preview, this spotlight on the house’s signature trench unfolds before us. The installation is small in scale but portrays a rich history and reveals numerous pieces and documents rarely exhibited, coming from both the Burberry archives and the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum.

From practical to aesthetic: the evolution of an iconic piece of British craftsmanship

The exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon presents itself as a summary of the history of the piece and the craftsmanship associated with it. From its creation in 1879 to its appearance on the runways in the 1920s, the evolution of this garment is fascinating to discover.

Initially appreciated for its durable, breathable, and waterproof materials, notably with the creation of gabardine by Thomas Burberry, the trench first established itself as a functional outerwear garment and was used in the trenches by soldiers during World War I.

The items on display at the V&A Museum reveal how the trench gradually slipped into everyone’s wardrobes after the war, adopting a fashionable side with its checkered lining.

Through ranges for men, women, and children, as well as the creation of socks and scarves to complete outfits, and even a collection created for winter sports featuring a wool version of gabardine, the Burberry trench has established itself as a fashion reference, with an image that solidified in the 1990s, a time when advertising propelled the brand internationally.

High-end craftsmanship and customer experience

With a made in England heritage since its first model, Burberry showcases various elements highlighting the craftsmanship involved in making a trench. From patterns to insignias, including different buttons and the number of stitches to assemble the collar, it is an art in itself that is celebrated here.

We also observe period documents, including catalogs and warranty notices, showing us the evolution of the customer experience. Between bespoke pieces and restoration services, the premium aspect of the Burberry trench is complemented by a high-quality service, explaining its renown.

A trench with an iconic and versatile silhouette

The final part of the exhibition takes on the appearance of a fashion show, featuring 19 looks borrowed from the house’s collections from the last 10 years, imagined by, among others, Daniel Lee and Christopher Bailey.

Carefully selected, these silhouettes demonstrate how the Burberry trench has managed to maintain its signature lines and elements over the years while reinventing itself through the volumes, prints, and materials used in its construction.

Inspired by the urban environment, London nights, or even adopting a more vintage or bohemian spirit, the Burberry trench is a piece that aims to be, more than ever, versatile and timeless.

The exhibition concludes with a look that beautifully celebrates the alliance of craftsmanship and fashion. Designed by Riccardo Tisci, this dress from the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2022 collection is born from a deconstructed trench.

Here, the sleeves fall along the hips, and the collar is placed at the front, adding a theatrical note to the bust and creating an elegant silhouette. The belt, buttons, and pockets remain in their original places, thus reminding us of the timelessness of the trench in this reinterpretation.

The exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon is free and located in the Prince Consort Gallery, on the 2nd floor of the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington, London.