A QR Code on Clothing Labels Can Stop Greenwashing?!

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We are currently experiencing a phase of change in the fashion industry, across several fronts. While the digitalization of our society is pushing brands to modernize their positioning, particularly with the design and sale of NFTs, the main challenge remains to restore trust among buyers, who are increasingly wary following numerous scandals related to the industry. In an era where awareness is rising regarding environmental and social issues, and where it becomes crucial to reassess one’s own consumption of fashion, there is a growing need for transparency and honesty from brands.

To take a step forward, the application of a QR code on clothing labels, providing more traceability, was made mandatory for major brands in January 2023. But is this really the solution to limit greenwashing? Can it be trusted? Are consumers sufficiently educated? Analysis.

Why is transparency essential for brands?

Although the model of fast fashion persists and continues to find an audience, we are noticing a growing willingness among consumers to approach fashion from a different angle. Specifically, a fairer and more responsible vision, aligned with the challenges we face, both in fashion and on a global scale.

This can be explained by the awakening of consciousness that we have been observing for several years, fueled by numerous reports, articles, testimonies, and photos highlighting the alarming state of the textile industry. Present among the most polluting industries, the production of raw materials, the toxic products used for their transformation, and the kilometers traveled across different parts of the world have a devastating impact on the planet. But that’s not all.

Revelations about the behind-the-scenes of this industry have notably shed light on working conditions in sweatshops, as well as the labor of Uyghurs. Unveiling the dramatic consequences on the mental and physical health of workers, and even fatal outcomes, as was the case in 2013 with the collapse of Rana Plaza (Bangladesh).

These revelations have served as a wake-up call and opened eyes to the reality that lies behind many brands. A consciousness awakening for consumers, who in response have changed their consumption habits, both in terms of purchase frequency and the choice of brands they engage with.

How are brands adapting to the awakening of consciousness?

Faced with the loss of trust from their customers, who prefer to turn to more responsible and circular modes of consumption, brands have also begun to make changes. For some, this new creative direction supports their values, while most comply in order to continue reaching their clientele and attract new buyers, all of whom are now more discerning.

Consumers now prefer more thoughtful consumption, favoring transparent, local, eco-responsible, and ethical brands. Additionally, there is a growing interest in second-hand and upcycling, aligning with the desire to consume less and try to extend the lifespan of garments.

This is how we see brands, some of which are entrenched in the fast fashion model, rethink their positioning and production approach to align with this new vision. For example, H&M is focusing on a circular economy to limit its impact on the planet and meet new expectations by promoting responsible pieces, offering rental access, and providing recycling and repair solutions, in addition to promoting second-hand through Sellpy.

Repair services are also being rolled out within other groups and retailers, such as Net-a-Porter, Selfridge, Harrods, or Beyond Retro, to name just a few. We are also observing in-store credit operations for used items, to better manage their second life.

How to regain trust with a QR code on clothing labels?

In line with these new practices, the AGEC law has recently given a new turn to brand transparency. Since January 2023, brands with an annual turnover of over 50 million euros must affix a QR code on clothing labels to specify their environmental impact. This obligation will gradually extend to other brands over the years.

After banning the destruction of unsold goods last year, the law is now tackling brand transparency. Similar to the nutriscore and the repairability index, the information accessible via the QR code on clothing labels is intended to inform the buyer about their purchase and, above all, to attempt to regain their trust by providing data about the design of a piece.

It is no longer possible for a brand to present itself with a beautiful image, merely describing a piece as biodegradable. Now, with this QR code on clothing labels, brands must be transparent about the percentage of recycled materials in the item. Furthermore, depending on the information provided by the brand, the customer will also be able to learn about the origin of the raw materials, the places of manufacture, or even the number of kilometers traveled from the fiber harvest to the store. This is to understand the carbon footprint of a piece and to make more conscious purchases.

These labels serve both during the initial purchase and for resale in the second-hand market, to aid in this transmission.

Why does transparency behind the creation of a piece have its limits?

Where a question arises regarding the relevance of this QR code on clothing labels is the reliability of the data, as well as their quantity.

Although these labels are an ideal tool to enlighten the consumer about the intricacies of a piece and to restore a truth and trust relationship, brands are not required to include all characteristics related to its design. This nuances the effectiveness of this approach, which is thus not robust enough to truly fit into a genuine transparency initiative.

A brand can very well choose to highlight the fact that its piece is made of over 80% recyclable materials, including linen grown in France, while concealing the deplorable working conditions of the people making it. Thus, it can present a beautiful image while hiding what the consumer might avoid.

Moreover, being aware that brands often subcontract to factories, which in turn subcontract to other factories, the question of the reliability of the data on the labels arises. The information provided throughout the creation of the piece, which constitutes the blockchain, is validated by a dedicated person at each stage of creation. Their honesty is the only parameter that ensures the accuracy of the data. However, experts or organizations can be called upon to check the data and to study the life cycle of the pieces to understand their environmental impact.

Brands can also turn to companies like Fairly Made or Good Fabric to ensure the control of their data or to assist them in their transition.

Is the QR code on clothing labels suitable for customers?

Of course, for a real transition to occur, the consumer must be informed and educated both about the use of this QR code on clothing labels and its understanding.

To this end, numerous accounts on social media, books, podcasts, and other media are developing to convey information for conscious consumption. However, the vast majority of consumers remain ill-informed, and this QR code on clothing labels is not easily accessible to them, often being too brief. Moreover, different levels of understanding must be taken into account when analyzing a piece, particularly to include the entire environmental landscape, as well as ethics and manufacturing conditions.

Thus, initiatives go beyond the simple QR code on clothing labels, supporting both consumers and brands to establish genuine transparency regarding their pieces, and this, in a way that is understandable for all. Clear Fashion is one of these change agents, offering an app that catalogs over 500 brands, analyzed according to their impact on the environment, humanity, health, and animals. These analyses allow for traceability and understanding the impact of materials. Customers have access to complete and verified data, ensuring the authenticity of the brand. Consequently, they can be supported in their communication strategies.

Although the QR code on clothing labels aims to establish transparency about brands, we find that it remains too superficial, leaving too much room for gray areas. There should be mandatory sharing of more data, double-checked, regarding both environmental impact and working conditions, which are completely omitted from the mandatory information. This initiative shows us that the road ahead is still long, but let’s inform ourselves to create an impact, even if it’s just on our own scale.